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    Seafood Ethics, Or Why I Don't Eat Squid (Part I)
    By Danna Staaf | June 2nd 2011 02:44 PM | 12 comments | Print | E-mail | Track Comments
    About Danna

    Cephalopods have been rocking my world since I was in grade school. I pursued them through a BA in marine biology at the University of California...

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    Squid are often considered to be one of the more sustainable seafood choices. Squid grow like weeds, right? They have short life cycles, make tons of babies, and adapt easily to changing environments. It's like eating dandelions.

    Only not.

    For one thing, the myth that species with shorter lifespans and faster growth are less susceptible to overfishing has recently been shown to be just that: a myth. Brilliant scientist Dr. Malin Pinsky (who happens to be a friend of mine, and just defended his thesis, hence the gratuitous title) just conducted a magnificent meta-analysis of fisheries data from around the world, showing that fish of all sizes and speeds are at the same risk of collapse from human fishing pressure.

    Of course, he did focus his analysis on FISH, which are VERTEBRATES, which are a TINY FRACTION of all the biodiversity in the ocean (and indeed, the world). I MAY have pointed this out during the question and answer session. But, well, one has to start somewhere.

    Anyway, you could argue that the fish results are not necessarily applicable to invertebrates like squid. Squid fisheries have never collapsed, right? Oh wait, there was the Argentinian shortfin squid that I won't shut up about--that collapsed a couple of years ago. But it came back! So everything's fine!

    Only not.

    Argentina just suspended their squid fishery, out of concern for stock collapse:
    The Federal Fishery Council (CFP) ordered the closure to squid (Illex argentinus) fishing in the area south of the South latitude parallel 44° from 21 May and the suspension of squid capture in the area north to this parallel from this Saturday until 18 June, after finding out the existence of a low biomass of this resource.
    Actually quite delicious.The moral of the story: squid are not necessarily the all-you-can-eat dandelions of the sea.

    But and again but, it's important to keep this in perspective. No squid species is known to be endangered. It's unlikely that even the Argentine shortfin squid is in nearly as dire straits as the truly overfished fish species, like California salmon* and Atlantic bluefin tuna** and many others. So I'm not at all arguing that squid are unsustainable.

    And yet I personally do not eat them, never have and never will. Why?
    Tune in tomorrow for a teuthological take on a fascinating recent discussion about fish, food, and people.

    * See comments for Captain Mike's welcome clarification of the CA salmon situation. While technically overfished, the stocks are not currently being overfished; in fact, they are being very carefully managed. So while it's factually true to say that they're overfished and in dire straits, I realize in retrospect that it's misleading--the reason CA salmon are struggling these days is all due to terrestrial environmental degradation, i.e. people mucking up the rivers they need to spawn.

    ** Even this might be considered a questionable assertion by some. See the second letter to the NYT editor, from Molly Lutcavage. So maybe these were both poor choices on my part to illustrate the point. Oh well, nom nom humble pie.

    Comments

    Over-fishing, methane, factory farms, etc. are enough to make me give up meat. I eat mostly chicken now and am on my way to being a vegetarian.

    Danna Staaf
    Good for you! There will be some discussion of vegetarianism in Part II . . .
    But squid are so delicious. I have always been fascinated by cephalopods, and yet I have never met one that I did not like to eat.

    Danna Staaf
    I hear that they are very tasty! Although I have also heard some notable exceptions: the giant squid Architeuthis, for examples, is apparently laden with ammonium and does not taste nice at all.
    I have heard that, but since I have never 'met' any giant or deep sea squid species (not being a squid researcher... just a cephalopodiphile, if that is a word), my assertion remains intact!

    Where did you get the idea that CA Salmon are "overfished"?
    Actually they are listed by the NMFS as overfished - but not by fishermen. FYI Google the terms "NMFS overfishing map" and "NMFS overfished map" - you will find that there is NO overfishing occurring along the US West Coast of any species that doesn't spend most of their life in international waters. In essence: American West Coast fishermen do not "overfish" anything these days. Other factors such as excessive water diversions, habitat destruction, and/or pollution are holding some species like our salmon back from achieving their full potential.
    Those fish that get caught and sold to consumers are under very rigorous management, ensuring that they have been harvested in a sustainable manner,

    Danna Staaf
    Thanks for your thoughts, Captain! Interestingly, you seem to have answered your own question--anyone can get the idea that west coast salmon are overfished by looking at this map.
    You are right that American fisheries, including CA salmon, are indeed rigorously managed. In the words of Ray Hillborn, a prominent fisheries scientist, "The overall record of American fisheries management since the mid-1990s is one of improvement, not of decline." True, and encouraging! Hillborn also acknowledges, "I am of course heavily influenced by my work on Alaska salmon, where we have higher abundances than any time in recorded history." 

    CA salmon are not doing nearly as well as Alaska salmon by any stretch of the imagination, and some stocks are overfished. (A listing for which the NMFS has an official definition. I am not sure what it means for a species or stock to be listed as overfished by fishermen? I've not heard of that.) However, you are absolutely right to call out the variety of factors, particularly environmental degradation, that are responsible for the current low abundances of salmon. Thanks again for commenting.

    Hi Danna,
    "overfished" and "overfishing" are 2 very distinct terms with legalistic meanings.... Some of our salmon are overfished, without any overfishing taking place. The important thing to keep in mind is that our management is always very cautious and won't allow us to fish if there's any chance of overfishing by fishermen. So, in essence - please feel free to eat any salmon caught in the wild off CA and OR without any feeling of guilt. Our season is shut down right now because of winter & spring run concerns, and will open again just before the 4th of July weekend..
    For the month of May, the Delta Pumps have killed close to 15,000 spring run salmon, our fisheries impact on these fish was probably in the hundreds at most - that's how our salmon are "overfished" without "overfishing" taking place.

    Danna Staaf
    Okay, now I see what you were getting at! It is definitely valuable to distinguish between an overfished stock (population is depleted) and active overfishing (fishermen are catching too many). Tag-A-Giant has a useful schematic:



    I appreciate that managers and fishermen are doing their best in good conscience to take care of the west coast salmon stocks, but I also understand that some people have concerns about eating even those few fish that are caught. So I like to leave the option of feeling guilty up to the individual consumer. =)

    For what it's worth, salmon from CA, OR, and WA are listed as a Good Alternative by Seafood Watch, and Pacific salmon are on the Gold List of Seafood for the Future.
    Stellare
    You might be pleased to hear that I do not eat squid. I just do not like it. It is like eating chewing gum. And I only had some of that in high school....:-)

    Just saying.
    Bente Lilja Bye is the author of Lilja - A bouquet of stories about the Earth
    Danna Staaf
    Hehe. I am pleased on a personal level, since I love live squid so much. =)
    The readers' digest of how it works (and of course it's a little more complicated than that...) is: The Sacramento Fall Run King Salmon are managed so that at least (approximately) 150,000 spawners return to the river, the Klamath must get a minimum of (approximately) 50,000 wild spawners before any fishing is allowed. If more than that are expected to return to either of these rivers, that excess is divvied up between commercial, sport and tribal fisheries.
    At this point, the survival of the species is already taken care of - because more spawners are not necessarily a good thing. Why? That’s the part that’s hard to understand for the average consumer…..
    These days we fish for the remaining 5% of historical salmon population numbers because we have lost about 95% of their habitat along our coast. Some might think “let’s wait until the salmon numbers come back up before we allow our fishermen to fish – or before we allow ourselves to enjoy a nice fillet of salmon” – wrong.
    The remaining spawning habitat can only support so many salmon, and that’s reflected in the management numbers above. The Klamath is the best example for this. Every year (since we began keeping records) when a small number of fish return to spawn, they produce record high numbers of offspring. Every year a large number of spawners return, they produce low abundance of salmon 3 years later. These fish have to compete for places to spawn, and late arrivals tear up the nests of the earlybirds, amongst other things.
    So in a hypothetical year when a mere 151,000 salmon are expected to return to the Sacramento, 1000 of these fish will be available for harvest – and every last one of these salmon will have been caught in a sustainable manner ensuring that there is no harm to future generations of these fantastic fish.
    I hope that helps, have an excellent day,
    Mike ~ ~ ~ <*)((((<><